Cosmetic preparations containing an extract of germinating plants

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic formulation containing an effective amount of germinated plant extract.
公开号:KR20040021605A
申请号:KR10-2003-7015548
申请日:2002-05-23
公开日:2004-03-10
发明作者:무쑤필리쁘；다누루이；다리동브뤼노；뽈리쥘르
申请人:코니스 프랑스, 에스.에이.；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

Cosmetic preparations containing extracts of germinated plants {COSMETIC PREPARATIONS CONTAINING AN EXTRACT OF GERMINATING PLANTS}
[2] Today's cosmetic preparations face increasingly demanding consumer demands. Gone are the days when night cream was enough to moisturize the skin. Today, cosmetic preparations are also expected to protect against environmental stress and to treat damage. While this need is still not complete to this day, aside from the fact that a deep understanding of the biochemical processes of skin and hair is premised, many different active ingredients, where many stimulating factors are considered, will also meet this need. Generally required. Apart from such unwanted interactions with artificially constructed mixtures, there are of course also technical difficulties and storage problems that make the composite product difficult to develop and increase the unit cost. On the other hand, it will be readily appreciated that the cosmetic industry has a great interest in active ingredients, in particular the vegetable active ingredients having “broad effects”, ie solving different cosmetic problems at once and simultaneously. Numerous substances form with each other, and special attention is naturally paid to the natural processes that occur in plants in the process of complementary activity.
[3] Germination is a concept of protection against very different biochemical processes such as protein hydration, subcellular structural changes, respiration, synthesis of macromolecules, and general expansion of cells. A common goal of all these processes is to convert the embryos of dehydrated plants present in dormant seeds into germinating buds. This requires certain environmental conditions, for example suitable temperature and the presence of oxygen. The germination process involves a number of substances, in particular growth factors such as auxins, gibberellins and cytokinins, and enzymes that drive storage substances such as carbohydrates, proteins, triacylglycerols or phytins. The organism itself metabolizes macromolecules by producing endogenous enzymes (amylase, fentonase, glucanase, protease, lipase, phosphatase, etc.) where smaller pieces need them. To be transported.
[4] In this regard, Malak [ Cosmetol. Cosmetol. 20 , 44 (1998) ]. Arztl. Kosmetol. 17 , 342-352 (1987) , Tronnier also describes its anti-inflammatory activity. The immunostimulatory activity of germinated plant extracts is known from DE 4141866 A1 . In NCP, 224 , 4-7 (1997) , Benaiges et al. Describe the anti-elastase activity of germinated alfalfa shoot extracts. WO 99/56712 (Provital) relates to the use of germinating plant extracts to stimulate cellular respiration. FR 2665900A1 (Andromaco) describes the use of oligosaccharides obtained from germinating plants to treat wounds and to initiate stimulation of blood cells, but not skin or hair cells. Finally, FR 2747044 A1 (Coletica) describes the use in cosmetic preparations of superoxide dismutases obtained from germinating plants.
[5] Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention is the provision of novel cosmetic active ingredients using plant active materials which solve various problems at once and simultaneously. In particular, the novel cosmetic active ingredients inhibit skin aging and sagging of connective tissue (cellulite), stimulate the synthesis of lipids in the stratum corneum, thereby strengthening the skin barrier, skin against environmental harmful substances, oxidative stress and ultraviolet rays. And protects hair follicles, promotes the synthesis of macromolecules such as collagen in fibroblasts, prevents inflammation of sensitive human skin, and sustains lipolysis and purification of body cells.
[1] The present invention relates generally to cosmetics, and more particularly to novel formulations having an effective content of germinated plant extracts.
[6] The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing an effective amount of the germinated plant extract.
[7] Surprisingly, it has been found that germinated plant extracts have a wide range of desired effects and can therefore be used for the care and protection of skin and hair.
[8] Plant extracts
[9] To a certain extent, the germinating plant always contains the same active substance which can achieve the desired wide range of cosmetic effects according to the invention. Therefore, the selection of germinating plants is not important. Typical examples include alfalfa, bambara nut, ketchup, borage, broccoli, buckwheat, cabbage, peas, peanuts, flax, fennel, cloves, carrots, cress, lentils, corn, melon, parsley, rape , Radish, rice, red cabbage, celery, mustard, sesame, soybean, sunflower, onion and grains such as rye, wheat, Kamut There are wheat, barley, oats and spelled wheat. Of course, mixtures may also be used. The effective amount of the extract is naturally 0.01 to 5, preferably 0.1 to 2, in particular 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the active substance content of the extract and the percentage content of the extract in the final formulation.
[10] extraction
[11] The extract can be prepared by the originally known method, for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous / alcoholic extraction of plants or parts thereof. Suitable conventional extraction methods, each well known to those skilled in the art and that can be used in principle, such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, agitation, fluid bed extraction, ultrasonic extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation ), Repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation, and solid / liquid extraction under continuous reflux performed in a Soxhlet extractor, See, eg, Hagers Handbuch der Pharmazeutischen Praxis (5th edition, Vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York 1991). Exudation is advantageous for industrial use. Although dry plants and / or parts of plants which are mechanically comminuteable before extraction are generally used, fresh plants or parts thereof are suitable as starting materials. Any grinding method known to those skilled in the art can be used, for example freeze grinding. Preferred solvents for the extraction process are organic solvents, water (preferably hot water having a temperature above 80 ° C., more particularly above 95 ° C.), or a mixture of organic solvents and water, more particularly low molecular weight with a somewhat higher content of water. Alcohol. Particular preference is given to extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof and water-containing mixtures. The extraction process is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 90 ° C, more particularly at 60 to 80 ° C. According to one preferred embodiment, the extraction process is carried out under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the components of the extract. This is particularly important if the extraction is carried out at temperatures above 40 ° C. The extraction time is selected by the person skilled in the art according to the starting material, the extraction method, the extraction temperature, the ratio of the solvent to the raw material and the like. After the extraction process, the crude extract obtained may optionally be subjected to other conventional steps such as, for example, purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If necessary, the extract prepared above can be subjected to selective removal of, for example, individual unwanted components. The extraction process can be performed to any degree, but typically continues until it is exhausted. Typical yields for extracts of dry leaves (= dry extracts relative to the amount of raw material used) range from 3 to 15, in particular from 6 to 10% by weight. The present invention includes the discovery that the extraction conditions and the yield of the final extract can be selected according to the desired field of use. Although the solvent can also be completely removed afterwards by drying, in particular spraying or freeze-drying the remaining dark red solid, the extract itself has an active substance content (= solids content) of 0.5 to 10% by weight, per se Can be used. If the purely active substances described above cannot be synthesized by simpler and cheaper methods, the extracts can also be used as starting materials for their preparation. Thus, the content of active substance in the extract may be 5 to 100% by weight, preferably 50 to 95% by weight. The extract itself may be present as a water-containing formulation and / or formulation dissolved in an organic solvent, and as a spray-dried or freeze-dried anhydrous solid. In contrast, suitable organic solvents include, for example, aliphatic alcohols of carbohydrates 1 to 6 (eg ethanol), ketones (eg acetone), halogenated hydrocarbons (eg chloroform or methylene chloride), Lower esters or polyols (eg glycerol or glycol).
[12] However, according to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract firstly extracts the germinated seeds with water and / or alcohol, and then gradually raises the temperature to 100 ° C. to activate the enzymes required to metabolize the storage material. By heat treatment them in the first step. After a period of time, the temperature is increased above 100 ° C. to deactivate the enzyme. Thereafter, an exogenase is optionally added which terminates the hydrolysis initiated by the endogenase already present in the extract. The extract can then be dried as described above.
[13] Commercial application
[14] As mentioned above, the focus of the present invention is the use of a germinated plant extract for the preparation of a cosmetic preparation in which the germinated plant extract may be present in an amount of 0.01 to 25, preferably 0.1 to 15, in particular 1 to 5% by weight. It is about. The invention also relates to the use of said extract as follows:
[15] Stimulation of cell growth and cell metabolism;
[16] Stimulation of skin macromolecule regeneration by fibroblasts;
[17] Stimulation of cellular protein synthesis to protect against natural aging effects;
[18] Increased protein and GSH concentrations in cells (enhanced defense against environmental impacts);
[19] Stimulation of G6PDH activity on dry, rough skin;
[20] Immune regulation;
[21] ▷ anti-inflammatory agents;
[22] Active ingredient against acne and rosaceae;
[23] ▷ antioxidants;
[24] Skin and hair protection against the effects of UVA and UVB irradiation;
[25] Protection of sensitive skin;
[26] ▷ anti-stress agent;
[27] Stimulation of synthesis and release of heat shock proteins;
[28] Fat breakdown agents;
[29] Active ingredient for purification of body cells;
[30] Active ingredients for inhibiting the synthesis of melanin in skin and hair cells;
[31] Active ingredient with estrogen-like activity.
[32] Cosmetic preparations
[33] Cosmetic preparations, and in particular, skin treatment preparations for sensitive skin, include additional surfactants and additives as mild surfactants, oil ingredients, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, viscosity agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers. , Polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, sun protection agents, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, film formers, swelling agents, repellents, Magnetic tanning agents, tyrosine inhibitors (pigmentation inhibitors), combustible triggers, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
[34] Surfactants
[35] Suitable surfactants are usually anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or which may be present in the formulation in an amount of about 1 to 70% by weight, preferably 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably 10 to 30% by weight. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Representative examples of anionic surfactants include soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ethers. Sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfoglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids , For example, acyl lactylate, acyl tartrate, acyl glutamate and acyl acyl Wave Tate (aspartate), alkyl oligo glucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensate (condensate) - (particularly wheat based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow range of homologous distributions. Representative examples of nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals. ), Optionally partially oxidized alkyl (alkenyl) oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (particularly wheat based vegetable products), polyol fatty acids Esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homogeneous distribution, but preferably have a narrow range of homogeneous distributions. Representative examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and esterquat, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Representative examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The above-mentioned surfactants are all known compounds. Information on its structure and manufacturing method can be found in the relevant overview, for example [J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 ] or [J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloeladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217 . Representative examples of particularly suitably mild, ie particularly dermatologically suitable surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acids Sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamate, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or preferably wheat proteins Protein fatty acid condensates.
[36] Oil ingredients
[37] Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, straight C _6-22 fatty acids and straight or branched C _6-22. Esters of fatty alcohols, or esters of branched C _6-13 carboxylic acids with straight or branched C _6-22 fatty alcohols, for example myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl iso Stearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl oleate, stearyl myriate Stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl et Leucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate , Oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl iso Stearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucil myristate, erucil palmitate, erucil stearate, erucil isostearate, erucil oleate, erucil behenate and e Lucille eleucate. See also esters of straight C _6-22 fatty acids with branched chain alcohols, in particular 2-ethyl hexanol, esters of C _18-38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with straight or branched C _6-22 fatty alcohols (see DE 197 56 377). A1 ), in particular based on dioctyl malate, straight and / or branched chain fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diols or trimer triols) and / or germane alcohols, C _6-10 fatty acids Triglycerides, liquid mono-, di- and triglyceride mixtures based on C _6-18 fatty acids, esters of C _6-22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbe alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, C _2-12 dicar Esters of straight or branched chain alcohols having acids with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched chain primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexane , Chain and branched C _6-22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicarboxylic ruffle reel carbonate (Cetiol CC), fatty acid based gerbe carbonates having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with straight and / or branched chain C _6-22 alcohols (e.g. Finsolv TN), straight or branched, symmetric or asymmetric dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE), ring-opening reaction products of epoxidized fatty acid esters and polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexane This is suitable.
[38] Emulsifier
[39] Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from one or more of the following groups:
[40] _2-30 moles of ethylene for straight chain C _8-22 fatty alcohols, C _12-22 fatty acids, alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group Oxides and / or 0-5 moles of propylene oxide addition product;
[41] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and ethoxylated analogs thereof;
[42] Addition products of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
[43] Addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
[44] Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, straight or saturated, branched fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 30 Molar ethylene oxide to its addition product;
[45] Polyglycerol (average autocondensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5,000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, Butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), and saturated and / or unsaturated, straight or branched chain fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with polyglucoside (eg cellulose) and / or having 3 to 18 carbon atoms Partial esters of oxycarboxylic acids, and their addition products to 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
[46] Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols according to DE 1165574 PS , and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerols,
[47] Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;
[48] Wool wax alcohols;
[49] Polysiloxane / polyalkyl / polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives;
[50] Block copolymers such as polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
[51] Polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen form (TR-1, TR-2) of Goodrich;
[52] Polyalkylene glycols, and
[53] Glycerol carbonate.
[54] Ethylene oxide addition products
[55] Addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or castor oil are known commercially available products. These are homogeneous mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amount of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, and the amount of substrate on which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products to glycerol of ethylene oxide are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
[56] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides
[57] Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and use are known from the prior art. They are especially prepared by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding glycoside units, both monoglycosides in which cyclic sugar units are attached to fatty alcohols by glycosidic bonds, and oligomeric glycosides, preferably with an oligomerization degree of about 8 or less, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value, based on which the typical homogeneous distribution of the industrial product is based.
[58] Partial Glyceride
[59] Representative examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglycerides, hydroxystearic acid diglycerides, isostearic acid monoglycerides, isostearic acid diglycerides, oleic acid monoglycerides, oleic acid diglycerides, ricinol Resin monoglycerides, ricinoleic acid diglycerides, linoleic acid monoglycerides, linoleic acid diglycerides, linolenic acid monoglycerides, linolenic acid diglycerides, erucic acid monoglycerides, erucic acid diglycerides, Tartar monoglycerides, tartaric acid diglycerides, citric acid monoglycerides, citric acid diglycerides, malic acid monoglycerides, malic acid diglycerides, and industrial mixtures of the above, which may also contain small amounts of triglycerides as a manufacturing process this . Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30 moles, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, to the partial glycerides.
[60] Sorbitan ester
[61] Suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, Sorbitan Dioleate, Sorbitan Trioleate, Sorbitan Mono-Eleucate, Sorbitan Sesque-Eleucate, Sorbitan Die-Eleucate, Sorbitan Tri-Eleucate, Sorbitan Monolicinoleate, Sorbitan Ses Quiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate Latex, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan dita Sorbitan sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan di Maleate, sorbitan trimaleate and industrial mixtures thereof. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30 moles, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, to the sorbitan esters.
[62] ▷ polyglycerol ester
[63] Representative examples of suitable polyglycerol esters include polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglycerol-3 Diisostearate (Lameform TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina) ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor GS 32) and polyglyceryl polylysinoleate (Admul WOL 1403), polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyol esters include trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol and lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, and the like. Mono-, di- and triesters which selectively react with from 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
[64] ▷ anionic emulsifier
[65] Typical anionic emulsifiers are fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
[66] Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers
[67] Another suitable emulsifier is a zwitterionic surfactant. Zwitterionic surfactants are surfactant compounds containing at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates having 8 to 18 carbon atoms each in alkyl or acyl groups, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate , N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate such as cocoacylaminopropyldimethyl ammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline, and cocoa Real aminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. Particular preference is given to fatty acid amide derivatives known as CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine . Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Amphoteric surfactants are surfactant compounds which contain not only C _8/18 alkyl or acyl groups, but also at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH— or —SO ₃ H— group in the molecule and are capable of internal salt formation. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkyl glycine, N-alkyl propionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-, each having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group Alkylamidopropyl glycine, N-alkyl taurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers, particularly those of esterquat type, preferably methyl-4-difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts.
[68] Fat and wax
[69] Representative examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid, vegetable or animal products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Suitable waxes are in particular natural waxes, for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, Rice-eye oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresin ceresine, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax; Chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), for example montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes to be. Other suitable additives besides fats are fat-like substances such as lecithin and phospholipids. Lecithin is known among those skilled in the art as glycerophospholipids formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Thus, lecithin is also frequently referred to by those skilled in the art as phosphatidyl choline (PC). An example of natural lecithin is kephalin, also known as phosphatidic acid and a derivative of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphate. In contrast, phospholipids are generally understood to be mono-, preferably diesters (glycerophosphates) of phosphoric acid and glycerol, usually classified as fat. Sphingosine and sphingolipids are also suitable.
[70] Pearl luster wax
[71] Suitable pearlescent waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, specifically coco fatty acid diethanolamides; Partial glycerides, specifically stearic acid monoglycerides; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular long chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty compounds such as fatty alcohols having a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, specifically laurone and distearylethers; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 Ring-opening products of polyols having hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
[72] Viscosity Factors and Thickeners
[73] Viscosity factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. Preference is given to using these materials in combination with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates of the same chain length. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil Relative high molecular weight of type (hydrophilic silica), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginate and tylose, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also fatty acids Polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters, polyacrylates (eg Carbopols And Pemulen type [Goodrich]; Synthalens [Sigma]; Keltrol type [Kelco]; Sepigel type [Seppic]; Salcare type [Allied Colloids]), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Other viscosity factors that have proven particularly effective include bentonite, for example cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and Bentone, a mixture of propylene carbonate Gel VS-5PC (Rheox). Other suitable viscosity factors include surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids and polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, a narrow range of fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides, And electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
[74] Superfatting agent
[75] Hyperlipidemic agents can be selected from materials such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, wherein the fatty acid alkanolamides Also acts as a foam stabilizer.
[76] Stabilizer
[77] Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
[78] polymer
[79] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, for example the tradename Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol. Copolymers of quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, cationic starch, diallyl ammonium salt and acrylamide, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as Luviquat (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat L, Gruenau), quaternized wheat polypeptide, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as copolymers of amodimethicone, adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretins , Sandoz), a copolymer of acrylic acid and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat 550, Chemviron), for example, polyaminopolyamides as described in FR 2252840 A and their crosslinked water soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, for example quaternized, optionally in a microcrystalline dispersion Chitosan, dihaloalkyl, for example a condensation product of dibromobutane and bis-dialkylamine, for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, for example Jaguar of Celanese CBS, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-16, quaternized ammonium salt polymer, for example Mirapol of Miranol A-15, Mirapol AD-1, Mirapol AZ-1.
[80] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylic Copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acid, and polyacrylic acids crosslinked with polyols, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl met Acrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate / Vinyl caprolactam terpolymer, and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and yarns It is Licon. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are described in Cosm. Toil. 108 , 95 (1993) .
[81] Silicone compound
[82] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, cyclic silicone and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- which are possible both in liquid and resin form at room temperature. And / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicone which is a mixture of dimethicones and hydrogenated silicates of average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units. For a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones see Todd et al . , Cosm. Toil. 91 , 27 (1976) .
[83] UV protection factor and antioxidant
[84] Ultraviolet protection factors according to the teachings of the present invention are organic substances, for example liquids or crystals at room temperature, capable of absorbing ultraviolet light and capable of emitting absorbed energy in the form of longer wavelength radiation, for example heat. (Optical filter). UV-B filters may be oil soluble or water soluble. The following are examples of oil soluble materials:
[85] 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampa and derivatives thereof, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -campa as described in EP 0693471 B1 ;
[86] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid amyl ester;
[87] Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
[88] Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomentyl ester;
[89] Derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-meth Oxybenzophenone;
[90] Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
[91] Triazine derivatives, for example in 2,4,6- trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and EP 0818450 A1 Octyl triazone described, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb HEB);
[92] Propane-1,3-dione, for example 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione;
[93] Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives described in EP 0694521 B1 .
[94] Suitable water soluble materials are as follows:
[95] 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof.
[96] Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof;
[97] Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphors such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) -sulfonic acid And salts thereof.
[98] Typical UV-A filters are in particular derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4- tert-butyl-4'-metoxysidbenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, and the enamine compound described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). In addition, UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in the form of mixtures. Particularly preferred bonds are benzoyl methane in combination with cinnamic acid esters, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, eg 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and derivatives of 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene). Such combinations advantageously combine with a water soluble filter, for example 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glu ammonium salts thereof.
[99] In addition to the above soluble materials, insoluble photoprotective pigments, ie finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, can also be used for the purposes of the present invention. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and oxides of iron, zirconium oxide, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium, and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulphate and zinc stearate can be used as salts. Oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin protection and skin protection emulsions, and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably 5 to 50 nm, in particular 15 to 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape, but elliptical particles or other non-spherical particles may also be used. In addition, the pigments can be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, for example Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) and Eusolex There is T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coatings are in particular silicones, especially of trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used as sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV protection filters are described in P. Finkel's overview [ SOFW-Journal 122 , 543 (1996) ] and in Parf. Kosm. 3 , 11 (1999) .
[100] In addition to the two groups of primary sunscreen factors described above, secondary sunscreen factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sunscreen factors of the antioxidant type interfere with the photochemical reaction chains that are triggered when ultraviolet light penetrates the skin. Representative examples thereof include amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine , D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g., anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g., α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, Chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin ( thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters thereof and Salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and very low compatible doses ( For example, pmol to μmol / kg) of sulfoximine compounds (e.g. butionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfone, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thione sulfoximine) , (Metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxyfatty acid, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) ), Humic acid, bile acid, bile extract, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g., γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid) , Folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone (u biquinone) and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E Acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof of benzoin resin, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfu Liliden Gluscitol, Carnosine, Butyl Hydroxytoluene, Butyl Hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac Resin Acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Trihydr a hydroxy butyric benzophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose (mannose) and derivatives thereof, superoxide-dismutase (Superoxid-dismutase), zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g., ZnO, ZnSO _4), selenium and Derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the present invention (salts, esters) , Ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).
[101] Biogenic agents
[102] In the context of the present invention, biological agents include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribohexane and cleavage products thereof, β-glucan, retinol, bisabolol , Allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
[103] Deodorant and Antimicrobial Agent
[104] Cosmetic deodorants counter, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odor is formed as a result of the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweating which results in the formation of decomposition products with an unpleasant odor. Thus, deodorants contain active ingredients that act as antimicrobial agents, enzyme inhibitors, malodor absorbers or malodor masking agents.
[105] ▷ antimicrobial agents
[106] Basically, suitable antimicrobial agents are all substances which act against gram-positive bacteria, for example 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '-( 3,4-dichlorophenyl) -urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2 ' -Methylene-bis- (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) -phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -Propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorohexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial perfume, thymol ( thymol), thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolau Latex (GML), diglycerol monocaprate ( DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides, for example salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide.
[107] ▷ enzyme inhibitor
[108] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. The esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate, and in particular , Triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). Esterase inhibitors reduce odor formation by inhibiting enzyme activity. Other esterase inhibitors include sterol sulfates or phosphates such as lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and cytosterol sulfates or phosphates, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example For example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic Acids and esters thereof, such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
[109] Odor absorbent
[110] Suitable malodor absorbers are substances which can absorb and retain large amounts of malodor-forming compounds. They reduce the partial pressure of the individual components and also reduce the rate at which they diffuse. In this regard, it is important that the fragrance should remain intact. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. These are, for example, zinc complexes of ricinoleic acid, or certain flavors mainly of odor neutrality known as "fixateurs" to those skilled in the art, for example, ladanum or styrox ( styrax) or certain abietic acid derivatives. Odor masking agents, besides their odor-shielding function, are perfumes or perfumes that impart their special flavor characteristics to deodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural flavors include extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woody parts, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, rosin and balsams. Animal raw materials, such as musk and dissociation, may also be used. Representative synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of fragrance compounds of the ester type include benzyl acetate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl (styrallyl) propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, straight alkanal, citral, citronellal, citro, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are, for example, ionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpene and balsam. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different perfume compounds which together produce a pleasant fragrance characteristic. Another suitable perfume oil is a relatively low volatility essential oil which is mainly used as an aromatic component. Examples include sage oil, chamomile oil, cloves oil, melissa balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum ) Oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. Preference is given to using the following individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lily, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil , Orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, labendine oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Bertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose ) Oxides, romillat, Rotil (irotyl) and Flora Mart (floramat).
[111] ▷ Antiperspirant
[112] Antiperspirants reduce sweating and, therefore, act against wetness of the armpits or odors in the body by affecting the activity of eccrine sweat glands. An aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulation typically contains the following ingredients:
[113] Astringent active ingredients,
[114] Oil component,
[115] ▷ nonionic emulsifier,
[116] ▷ secondary emulsifiers,
[117] ▷ viscosity factor
[118] Auxiliaries, for example in the form of thickeners or complexing agents, and / or
[119] Non-aqueous solvents such as ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerol.
[120] Suitable astringent active ingredients of antiperspirants are especially salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and their for example 1,2-propylene glycol and Complexes, aluminum hydroxyalantoinates, aluminum chloride tartrates, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, and their complexes with amino acids such as, for example, glycine . The fat soluble and water soluble auxiliaries typically used in antiperspirants may be present in relatively small amounts. Such fat-soluble aids include, for example:
[121] ▷ anti-inflammatory, skin protective or aromatic essential oils,
[122] ▷ synthetic skin protectants and / or
[123] Useful oils.
[124] Typical water soluble additives include, for example, preservatives, water soluble fragrances, pH adjusters such as buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners such as water soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxide.
[125] Film former
[126] Conventional film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, acrylic acid based polymers, quaternized cellulose derivatives, collagen , Hyaluronic acid and its salts and similar compounds.
[127] Swelling agent
[128] Suitable aqueous commercial swelling agents are montmorillonite, clay minerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers and swelling agents are described in R. Lochhead's review, Cosm. Toil. 108 , 95 (1993) .
[129] Insect repellent
[130] Suitable insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate.
[131] Magnetic tanning agent and pigmentation inhibitor
[132] Suitable magnetic tanning agents are dihydroxyacetones. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors that inhibit melanin formation and are used as pigmentation inhibitors include, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). )
[133] Hydrogenic Causing Agents (Hydrotrope)
[134] In addition, in order to improve flow behavior, a combustible triggering material such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyol may be used. Suitable polyols preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least 2 hydroxyl groups. The polyols may have other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Representative examples are as follows:
[135] Glycerol;
[136] Alkylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Daltons such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycol;
[137] Degree of self-condensation 1.5 to 10 industrial oligoglycerol mixtures, for example industrial diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
[138] Methylol compounds such as trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
[139] Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
[140] Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol,
[141] Sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;
[142] Amino sugars such as glucamine;
[143] Dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.
[144] Preservative
[145] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the tradename Surfacine Known are silver complexes and other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of Kosmetikverordnung ("Cosmetics Directive").
[146] Balm and aroma
[147] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural flavors include flowers (lilies, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petite grains), fruits (anise ( anise) berries, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood grain (pine) , Sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood, herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce) , Fir, pine, pine), rosin and balsam (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax) extracts. Animal raw materials such as musk and dissociation may also be used. Representative synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of fragrance compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carvinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl Methyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, straight alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, lily and burgional. Examples of suitable ketones are ionone, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols include anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different perfume compounds which together produce a pleasant fragrance characteristic. Another suitable perfume oil is a relatively low volatility essential oil mainly used as an aromatic component. Examples include sage oil, chamomile oil, cloves oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden-flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, radanum oil and rabendine oil. have. Preference is given to using the following individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromirsenol, lily, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone , Cyclamen Aldehyde, Linalool, Brosambarene Forte, Ambroxane, Indole, Hedion, Sandelis, Citrus Oil, Mandarin Oil, Orange Oil, Allylamyl Glycolate, Cyclovertal, Labendine Oil, Clary Oil , β-Damascon, Geranium Oil Bourbon, Cyclohexyl Salicylate, Bertopix Coyur, Iso-E-Super, Picsolidide NP, Everyl, Iraldine Gamma, Phenylacetic Acid, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Acetate, Rose Oxide , Lomillat, erotyl and floramat. Suitable aromas include, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anidese oil, japanese anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, citrus oil, wintergreen oil, cloves oil, menthol and the like.
[148] dyes
[149] Suitable dyes are described, for example, in Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 ] any suitable material approved for cosmetic use, such as listed in the publication "Kosmetische Faerbemittel" . Examples are Cochinyl Red A (CI 16255), Pattern Blue V (CI42051), Indigotin (CI 73015), Chlorophyllin (CI 75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI 47005), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (CI 69800) and Mother Lake (CI 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are generally used at concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
[150] The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives may be 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the specific formulation. The formulations may be prepared by standard high or low temperature processes and are preferably prepared by a phase inversion temperature method.
[151] germination. Plant seeds were soaked in water for 5-14 hours at 14 ° C. (alternatively: alternately soaked in water and dried in air), then germinated under constant rotation, and culture dishes over 25-24 hours at 25 ° C. Was vented.
[152] Preparation Example H1. Lentils were germinated for 7 days and then shock frozen. 440 g of frozen shoots were broken into pieces and suspended in 660 mL of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C. for 90 minutes and the insoluble components were removed by centrifugation and filtration. Then water was removed from the filtrate and lyophilized.
[153] Preparation Example H2. 500 g of shoots of frozen lentils were crushed and suspended in 1 L of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C. for 1 hour and then the temperature was gradually increased to 90 ° C. over 2 hours. The solid component was then removed again, concentrated by evaporation and the extract was lyophilized.
[154] Preparation H3. Sunflower seeds were germinated for 7 days and then shock frozen. 500 g of frozen shoots were crushed and suspended in 750 ml of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C for 1 h and then heated to 100 ° C for 15 min. The solid component was then removed again, concentrated by evaporation and the extract was lyophilized.
[155] Preparation Example H4. Sunflower seeds were germinated for 1 day and then shock frozen. 500 g of frozen shoots were crushed and suspended in 750 ml of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C for 1 h and then heated to 100 ° C for 15 min. The solid component was then removed again, concentrated by evaporation and the extract was lyophilized.
[156] Preparation H5. The spell mill was germinated for 31 hours and then shock frozen. 300 g of frozen shoots were crushed and suspended in 450 ml of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C. for 60 minutes and the insoluble components were removed by centrifugation and filtration. Then water was removed from the filtrate and lyophilized.
[157] Preparation Example H6. 450 g of the shoots of the frozen spell mill were crushed and suspended in a mixture of 2.5 L methanol and 0.1 L water. The shoots were then extracted under reflux for 1 hour. After cooling, methanol was removed in vacuo and the extract was lyophilized.
[158] Preparation Example H7. Rye kernels were germinated for 26 hours and then shock frozen. 200 g of frozen shoots were crushed and suspended in 400 ml of water. The suspension was stirred at 20 ° C. for 60 minutes and the insoluble components were removed by centrifugation and filtration. Then water was removed from the filtrate and lyophilized.
[159] Preparation H8. 450 g of shoots of frozen rye (germinated for 26 hours) were crushed and suspended in 2 liters of methanol. The shoots were then extracted under reflux for 1 hour. After cooling, methanol was removed in vacuo and the extract was lyophilized.
[160] Preparation H9. 500 g of shoots of frozen lentils (germinated for 26 hours) were crushed and suspended in a mixture of 1.4 L methanol and 0.47 L distilled water. The shoots were then extracted under reflux for 1 hour. After cooling, methanol was removed in vacuo and the extract was lyophilized.
[161] Preparation H10. Fresh rye shoots were obtained from a germ cell line (France) and then frozen. In the reactor, 50 kg of frozen rye sprouts were heated to 98 ° C. with 98 kg of water and then vigorously stirred for 2 hours. The suspension was then centrifuged and maintained at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. The pH was adjusted to pH 4.5-5 and the suspension was filtered to give a liquid extract with a solids content of 13% by weight followed by addition of 5% by weight of glycerol.
[162] Preparation H11. Fresh lentil shoots were obtained from a germ cell line (France) and then frozen. In the reactor, 50 kg of frozen lentil shoots were heated to 98 ° C. with 98 kg of water, followed by vigorous stirring for 2 hours. The suspension was then centrifuged and maintained at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. The pH was adjusted to pH 4.5-5 and the suspension was filtered to give a liquid extract with a solids content of 2.5% by weight followed by the addition of 5% by weight of glycerol.
[163] Preparation H12. Fresh sprouted shoots were obtained from a germ cell line (France) and then frozen. In the reactor, 50 kg of frozen spelled sprouts were heated with 98 kg of water to 50 ° C. and then vigorously stirred for 2 hours. The suspension was then centrifuged and maintained at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. The pH was adjusted to pH 4.5-5 and the suspension was filtered to give a liquid extract with a solids content of 8% by weight, followed by the addition of 5% by weight of glycerol.
[164] Preparation H13. Fresh Kamut from Germ Cell Line (France) Shoots of wheat were obtained and frozen. In the reactor, 50 kg of frozen wheat shoots were heated to 98 ° C. with 98 kg of water, followed by vigorous stirring for 2 hours. The suspension was then centrifuged and maintained at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. The pH was adjusted to pH 4.5-5 and the suspension was filtered to give a liquid extract with a solids content of 7% by weight, followed by the addition of 5% by weight of glycerol.
[165] Preparation H14. The liquid extract of Preparation H13 was spray dried with dextrin as a carrier, and then glycerol was added. Kamut A powder containing 50% by weight of dry extract of shoots of wheat and 50% by weight of dextrin was obtained.
[166] A. Effects on Skin Aging
[167] Glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PDH) enzymes facilitate the first stage of the "orthosaccharide pathway" in which the major component of DNA, ie deoxyribose, is formed. In this first step, glucose-6-phosphate (G6P) is converted to 6-phosphatogluconate (6PG) by G6PDH. At the same time, the coenzyme NADP necessary for this conversion is reduced to NADPH2, which in turn can promote many other biological reactions, such as recycling glutathione or synthesis of lipids. Reduced glutathione protects cells against many enzymes with SH groups and oxidative stress such as ultraviolet exposure. Therefore, G6PDH content is an important parameter for cell protection and skin regeneration. G6PDH activity against human fibroblasts was measured in vitro by Okada enzyme method and DNA content was measured by Desaulniers method. The results are shown in Table 1, where the results of the three series of measurements, including three measurements, are expressed as relative% to the base group.
[168] Stimulation of G6PDH activity (calculated as relative%)extract Concentration (% w / v) DNA G6PDH 3 days later After 6 days 3 days later After 6 days Batang 0.1 100 100 100 100 H10.1152145138100 H30.1135107181221 H50.19389154204 H70.0374116118103
[169] B. Regeneration and Growth Stimulating Activity
[170] After incubation for 72 hours in the culture, fibroblasts formed a saturated monolayer, their activity was stopped, and growth ceased. Adenosine triphosphate (ATP), a cell fuel that is essentially formed in mitochondria, is required, for example, to activate certain enzymes that regulate the cytoskeleton, ionic channels, uptake of nutrients, and many other important biological processes. Bradford method for protein content of cells [see. Anal. Biochem. 72 , 248-254 (1977) . Glutathione (GSH) is a special protein produced by cells for protection against oxidative stress and environmental harmful substances, especially heavy metals. The three amino acids included in the reduced form of GSH are linked to specific cellular enzymes that require ATP for activation. Increasing GSH concentration increases glutathione-S-transferase activity and detoxifying enzyme. Hissin method for GSH content [see. Anal. Biochem. 74 , 214-226 (1977) ].
[171] Growth stimulation effect of the test substance was tested on human fibroblasts. In the first series of tests, fibroblasts were incubated in nutrient medium for 1 day at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ , the nutrient medium was replaced with medium containing test substance, and the fibroblasts were further 3 days at 37 ° C. Incubated for The protein content and ATP concentration of the cells were then measured.
[172] Survival stimulus effects were measured in the second series of tests. To this end, fibroblasts were first incubated in culture for 3 days at 37 ° C. and then in test solution for 3 days at the same temperature. The protein content and GSH concentration of the cells were then measured.
[173] The results are shown in Table 2, where the results of the three series of measurements, including three measurements, are expressed as relative% to the base group.
[174] Growth and survival stimulus effects (calculated as relative%)extract Concentration (% w / v) Growth test Survival test proteinATPproteinGSH / Protein Batang0100100100100 H10.03112101130123 H20.01100130 H20.03 111131 H30.1149135125177 H40.1129118136105 H50.1 126154 H60.1153182176162 H70.1 120146 H80.1157141144146 H90.03136169210151 H133170 166146
[175] The above examples show that shoot extracts have excellent potential for stimulating skin cell regeneration, improving protein synthesis, and also increasing metabolism regarding the growth and protection of fibroblasts.
[176] Thus, these extracts are well suited as cosmetic preparations against skin aging, or as active ingredients for the regeneration of structural proteins of the skin such as collagen, elastin and glycoproteins, and for supporting wound healing. In addition, the extract according to the present invention increases the level of reduced glutathione, thereby improving the protection mechanism and activity of cells against harmful environmentally harmful substances, such as heavy metals, and oxidative stress.
[177] C. Anti-inflammatory Activity
[178] In the process of skin inflammation, leukocytes such as, for example, polymorphonuclear neutrophil granulocytes (PMN) are stimulated by peptides such as, for example, cytokines, for example with leukotriene released from activated or necrotic cells of the dermis. Emits the same messenger material. The activated PMN releases not only pro-inflammatory cytokines, leukotrienes and proteolytic enzymes, but also ROS such as superoxides and hypochlorite anions that act to destroy invading pathogens or fungi, for example. This activity of PMN during inflammation is known as respiratory rupture and can cause additional damage in tissue. To investigate to what extent the test extract can prevent or reduce respiratory rupture, the cell lines of human leukemia granulocytes of PMN were incubated with the test substance at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ . After the yeast extract (Zymoic acid) was added to the cell solution to initiate respiratory rupture, the release of superoxide anions was measured through the reaction with luminol. The results are shown in Table 3, where the number of cells and the amount of ROS released are expressed in percent relative to the reference value which is the mean value of the measurement series comprising three measurements.
[179] Anti-inflammatory activity (relative% ± standard deviation)Test product Concentration (% w / v) Cell count Released ROS Batang0100100 H10.1102 ± 477 ± 17 H30.196 ± 652 ± 18 H40.195 ± 940 ± 37 H50.1100 ± 757 ± 14 H60.1110 ± 544 ± 35 H80.1103 ± 437 ± 12 H90.1102 ± 512 ± 3 H130.1100 ± 639 ± 24
[180] The examples show that the extract has a strong inhibitory effect on respiratory rupture of human granulocytes but does not damage granulocytes.
[181] D. Cell Protection Against UVA Irradiation
[182] The purpose of the following in vitro test is to determine whether extracts of germinating plants can protect human fibroblasts against the effects of oxidative stress, especially UVA rays. UVA was chosen as a stressor, because UVA penetrates into the dermis causing fat peroxidation, particularly of the cellular membrane. The fatty acids formed are cleaved into malonaldehyde (MDA) which results in crosslinking of many biomolecules, for example proteins (enzyme inhibition) or nucleobases (mutations). To carry out the test, fibroblast cultures were mixed with fetal calf serum and inoculated with test substance two days later. After 36 hours of incubation at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ , the nutrient medium was replaced with an electrolyte solution and the fibroblasts were damaged with a predetermined amount (3-15 J / cm ² ) of UVA. After exposure, the amount of MDA formed in the supernatant was measured by reaction with thiobarbituric acid, and the content of protein weave in cell homogenates was determined by the Bradford method. The results are shown in Table 4 as relative% to baseline. Table 4 shows the average values of two measurement series including three measurements.
[183] Activity on UVA line (calculated as relative% ± standard deviation)Test product Concentration (% w / v) MDA released Cellular protein Control group without UVA irradiation 0100 UVA irradiation control 100101 H6 + UVA Probe0.171 ± 4129 ± 7 H6 + UVA Probe0.357146 H8 + UVA Probe0.140 ± 1147 ± 8 H9 + UVA probe0.0364 ± 313 ± 3
[184] The results show that the extract has a sustained and positive effect on the fight against oxidative stress without damaging fibroblasts.
[185] E. Cell Protection Against UVB Irradiation
[186] UVB irradiation (280-320 nm) causes skin inflammation primarily by activating phospholipase A2 or PLA2 enzymes that release arachidonic acid from the cell wall. Arachidonic acid is converted to prostagladin by cyclooxygenase, which in turn is concealed by the cell. When prostaglandins of the PGE2 type are immobilized to specific skin receptors, redness and swelling of the skin occurs, which also occurs when sunburned. In cell culture, the effect of UVB irradiation is associated with the release of cytoplasmic enzymes, in particular lactate dehydrogenase (LDH). To test the UVB inhibitory activity of the extract, human keratinocytes were cultured in nutrient medium (DMEM + FCS) for 3 days at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume of CO ₂ . The nutrient medium was then replaced with an electrolyte solution containing the test substance and damaged keratinocytes by exposure to UVB irradiation (50 mJ / cm ² ). After an additional 24 hours of incubation, the cell number was measured after trypsinization and the amount of LDH released in the supernatant was measured spectrometer. The said result was shown in Table 5 which showed the average value of the 2 measurement series containing 3 measurements. Calculations are expressed as relative to the base group.
[187] Activity on UVB line (calculated as relative% ± standard deviation)extract Concentration (% w / v) Number of keratinocytes LDH released Batang without UVB irradiation01000 Batang with UVB irradiation023 ± 5100 ± 0 H1 + UVB probe0.0398 ± 1019 ± 1 H2 + UVB probe0.139 ± 152 ± 15 H3 + UVB probe0.165 ± 250 ± 1 H5 + UVB probe0.183 ± 129 ± 14 H7 + UVB probe0.1104 ± 224 ± 0 H8 + UVB probe0.131 ± 551 ± 2 H8 + UVB probe0.344 ± 728 ± 1 H9 + UVB probe0.0341 ± 1416 ± 9 H9 + UVB probe0.168 ± 154 ± 2 H13 + UVB probeOne66 ± 718 ± 5 H13 + UVB probe367 ± 59 ± 3
[188] The results show that the extract exhibits anti-inflammatory activity by significantly protecting human keratinocytes against the effects of UVB irradiation.
[189] F. Immune Stimulation
[190] Immunostimulation is a protective concept for biochemical processes in which messenger substances such as, for example, β-glucan, for example, bind and conceal toxins and stimulate the body's self defense to promote regeneration of skin cells. Organisms are known to lose this ability as aging progresses. Immune stimulation against human leukocytes already activated with yeast extract (Zymosan) can be observed in vitro. Capsoni et al., Int. J. Immunopharm. 10 (2), 121-133 (1998) ]. Cultures of polymorphonuclear neutrophil granulocytes (PMN) were incubated with test material for 24 hours at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ . Zymosan was added to initiate respiratory rupture. After 30 minutes, the number of PMNs was measured with an automatic cell counter, and the amount of reactive oxygen species (ROS) released in the supernatant was measured by luminol using a spectrometer. The results are shown in Table 6 as relative% to baseline. Table 6 is shown as the average of two measurement series including three measurements.
[191] Immune stimulation (calculated as relative%)Test product Concentration (% w / v) White blood cell count Released ROS Batang0100100 H10.0197 ± 3229 ± 39 H30.00195 ± 5144 ± 29 H50.001103 ± 4141 ± 44 H70.001104 ± 4154 ± 34
[192] The results show that the test substance stimulates the immune system and sustains the body's self defense, especially skin cells.
[193] G. Inhibition of Melanin Synthesis in B16 Melanocytes
[194] Melanin is a pigment that is responsible for skin color and hair color. Melanin is formed in melanocytes that occur in certain organelles, that is, melanocytes in the basal layer of the human epidermis. Synthesis of melanin is initiated at the same time as tyrosine is oxidized to DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine) by tyrosinase. DOPA then polymerizes the melanin stored in the melanocytes.
[195] To perform the test, melanocytes (B16 cell line) were cultured in standard growth medium for cell cultures containing fetal bovine serum (FCS) for 3 days at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ . The growth medium was then replaced with standard medium in which the material to be tested was adjusted to different concentrations. After incubation for 3 days, the number of viable cells was determined through the cellular protein content (Bradford method), and the content of synthetic melanin measured in cell homogenate at an optical density of 475 nm. The results are expressed in% relative to the control of pure cell culture medium.
[196] Inhibition of Melanin Synthesis in B16 Melanocytes ResultsTest product Concentration (% w / v) Cellular protein content Melanin content Control0 %100%100% Arbutin0.5%81%35% H11One %95%41% 3%80%32% H103%126%46% 10%118%40% H123%126%59% 10%126%46% H133%158%63% 10%137%55%
[197] The results show that extracts of germinating plants significantly inhibit the synthesis of melanin in B16 melanocytes without any detrimental effect on cells. Thus, they can be used for the skin whitening of cosmetic preparations, in particular for the so-called black mushroom.
[198] H. Cell Protection Against Thermal Shock
[199] Cell protection against thermal shock was investigated in tests on human fibroblasts. For this purpose, the viability of stressed cells was measured through the content of ATP (adenosine triphosphate) of the cells. ATP is a high energy component produced in mitochondria. Cells require ATP to maintain enzymes that sustain the cytoskeleton, ionic channels, uptake of nutrients, and many vital processes.
[200] To carry out the test, human fibroblasts were incubated in growth medium for 3 days at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ . The growth medium was then replaced with standard medium in which the material to be tested was adjusted to different concentrations. After incubation for 2 days at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume of CO ₂ , the cells were exposed to a heat shock of 45 ° C. for 2 hours, and then cultured for 1 day at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume of CO ₂ .
[201] ATP content of cells after heat shock treatment (mean value-3 measurements of 4 to 5 evaluations expressed as% of control)ATP content of cells H10 H13 H12 Unstressed control100%100%100% Control group subjected to thermal shock at 45 ° C. for 120 minutes20%18%23% Thermal shock at 45 ° C. for 120 min + extract 1%30%25%18% Thermal shock at 45 ° C. for 120 min + extract 3%37%42%20% Thermal shock at 45 ° C. for 120 min + extract 10%113%59%42%
[202] Thermal shocks give cells the ATP content of cells ca. Reduced by 80% had a harmful effect. Extracts of germinating plants increase the ATP content of the cells by protecting the cells or their metabolism against thermal shock.
[203] Thus, extracts of germinating plants can be used as active substances to protect cells against oxidative stress, environmentally harmful substances or ultraviolet radiation.
[204] I. Detoxification Activity: Protection of Human Keratinocytes Against Cell Damage Gases
[205] Cell protection against gaseous harmful substances has been demonstrated for human keratinocytes exposed to poisoning by exhaust gases and tobacco smoke.
[206] Human keratinocytes were incubated in standard growth medium for 2 days at 37 ° C. and then adjusted to different concentrations by standard cell culture medium. Then they were exposed to exhaust gas or tobacco smoke at 37 ° C. for 4 hours.
[207] Cell viability was measured by ATP assay through enzyme luminescence and reduced MTT assay [ Denizot F. and Lang R .: Rapid colorimetric assay for cell growth and survival; J. Immunol. Methods (1986) 89, 271-277 ].
[208] Protection against exhaust gases (average of six assessments expressed as% of control) ATP content Reduced MTT content Control100%100% Exhaust gas (EG)39%57% Exhaust Gas + H13 0.3%66%69%
[209] Intoxication by the exhaust gas significantly reduced the ATP content of the cells and the level of reduced MTT in human keratinocytes.
[210] Kamut The sprout extract of wheat has a high potential in protecting human keratinocytes against the damaging effects of the exhaust gases.
[211] Protection against tobacco smoke (average of six assessments expressed as% of control) ATP content Reduced MTT content Control100%100% Tobacco Smoke (CS)36%71% Tobacco Smoke + H13 0.3%51%81%
[212] As in exhaust gas, Kamut Wheat germ had a positive effect on the protection of tobacco smoke.
[213] J. Stimulating Activity of HSP (Thermal Shock Protein)
[214] Heat shock protein (HSP) is a specific protein that is commonly synthesized by all cells that respond to stressors such as excessive temperatures. They are essential for the formation of protein structures. In stressed cells, HSPs are associated with protective and repair mechanisms. They affect the developed or aggregated polypeptide by either switching back to the active structure or by promoting proteolysis of the denatured protein.
[215] Expression of HSP is associated with cellular protection against stress factors. Very small amounts of stress also increase HSP and, excessively, improved resistance to additional stress.
[216] One of the major heat shock proteins, HSP 72, occurs in the skin and can be detected by immunocytochemical testing of cultures of keratinocytes. After exposure to stress, HSP 72 can first be synthesized in the cytoplasm, and soon afterwards in the cell nucleus, and somewhat later in the nucleolus (one of the cellular functions of HSP 72 is to protect the structure of the nucleolus after stress).
[217] To carry out the test, human keratinocytes were cultured on a glass support in growth medium containing fetal bovine serum. After 3 days of incubation at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ , the cells were treated with extracts of the germinating plant and then rapidly heated to 45 ° C. for 10, 15 or 20 minutes in an oven (thermal shock).
[218] After the heat shock treatment, keratinocytes were incubated at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume of CO ₂ for 2 hours. To measure HSP, cells were fixed in cold methanol for 10 minutes and then incubated with monoclonal antibody against HSP 72 diluted at a ratio of 1: 150 for 1 hour at room temperature. They were then washed with phosphate buffer (PBS) and incubated with a biotinylated Ziege anti-mouse antibody diluted at a ratio of 1:50 for 45 minutes, followed by 1: for 45 minutes. It was reexposed to the streptavidin / fluorescein complex diluted to a ratio of 30.
[219] A negative control was prepared by removing the primary antibody.
[220] After complete washing with PBS, immunochemically stained cells were counter-colored with Evans Blue for 10 minutes. The cells were then observed with a Zeiss confocal laser scanning microscope and the immunochemically stained sites were evaluated by image analysis.
[221] The results are based on the percentage of culture surface filled by HSP (first step in the positioning of HSP in the cytoplasm), or the number of colored nuclei (location of HSP 72 in the nucleus) based on the total area of the observed area. In the second step).
[222] % Of surface filled by HSP, and treatment with shoot extract of rye (mean value ± standard deviation of 6 measurements) Rating 1Evaluation 2Thermal shock timeThermal shock time0 min15 mins20 minutes0 min15 mins20 minutes Control0.03 ± 0.10.97 ± 0.296.48 ± 1.75 H10 4% (w / v)0.01 ± 0.12 ± 1.3911.11 ± 2.22 H10 11.9% (w / v)0.08 ± 0.31.92 ± 0.5612.21 ± 2.66 H10 19.6% (w / v) 03.15 ± 0.3919.86 ± 2.34
[223] Number of cell nuclei stained by HSP, and treatment with shoot extract of rye (mean value ± standard deviation of 6 measurements) Thermal shock for 0 minutesThermal shock for 15 minutesThermal shock for 20 minutes Control005.67 ± 1.37 H10 4% (w / v)009.83 ± 2.04 H10 11.9% (w / v)0015.50 ± 2.95
[224] The results demonstrate that the sprout extract of rye significantly increases the synthesis of HSP in keratinocytes after heat shock.
[225] Number of cell nuclei stained by HSP, and treatment with shoot extract of trademark Kamut wheat (mean value ± standard deviation of 6 measurements) Thermal shock for 0 minutesThermal shock for 20 minutes Control00 H14 0.7% (w / v)012.5 ± 4.46
[226] Kamut Wheat germ extract also significantly increased the synthesis of HSP in keratinocytes after heat shock.
[227] Thus, extracts of germinating plants improve the defense mechanism of skin cells. Induction of intracellular HSP accelerates the response to stressors and improves the defense mechanism against further stress in a preventive manner.
[228] Many formulations are shown in Table 14.
[229] Examples of cosmetic preparations (water, preservatives fill 100% by weight)Composition (INCI) A B C D EEmulgade SE Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearette 12/20 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate5.05.04.0--Eumulgin B1 ceteareth-12--1.0--Lameform TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Isostearate---4.0-Dehymuls PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate ----4.0Monomuls 90-O 18 Glyceryl Oleate---2.0-Cetiol HE PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate----2.0Cetiol OE dicaprylyl ether---5.06.0Cetiol PGL hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl laurate--3.010.09.0Cetiol SN cetearyl isononanoate3.03.0---Cetiol V decyl oleate3.03.0---Myritol 318 coco caprylate caprate--3.05.05.0 beeswax---7.05.0Nutrilan Elastin E20 Hydrolyzed Elastin2.0----Nutrilan I-50 Hydrolyzed Collagen-2.0---Gluadin AGP Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten--0.5--Gluadin WK sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein---0.50.5 Extract H11.01.01.0-- Extract H5---1.01.0Hydagen CMF Chitosan1.01.01.01.01.0 Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate---1.01.0Glycerol (86 wt.%)3.03.05.05.03.0 (A) Soft Cream, (B, C) Moisturizing Emulsion, (D, E) Night Cream

权利要求:
Claims (23)
[1" claim-type="Currently amended] Cosmetic preparations containing an effective amount of germinated plant extract.
[2" claim-type="Currently amended] The plant of claim 1, wherein the plant is alfalfa, balmnut nut, kerosene, borage, broccoli, buckwheat, cabbage, peas, peanuts, flax, fennel, cloves, carrots, cress, lentils, corn. , Melon, Parsley, Rape, Radish, Paddy, Red Cabbage, Celery, Mustard, Sesame, Soybean, Sunflower, Onion, and Rye, Wheat, Kamut A formulation characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of cereals such as wheat, barley, oats and spelled wheat.
[3" claim-type="Currently amended] The formulation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the preparation contains an extract in an amount of 0.01 to 25% by weight.
[4" claim-type="Currently amended] A method for producing a plant extract, wherein the germinated seeds are extracted with water and / or alcohol, the obtained extract is heat treated, and optionally dried after addition of an exogenous enzyme.
[5" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts for the preparation of cosmetic preparations.
[6" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to stimulate cell growth and cell metabolism.
[7" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to stimulate regeneration of skin giant cells by fibroblasts.
[8" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to stimulate the synthesis of cellular proteins for protection against natural aging effects.
[9" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to increase intracellular protein and GSH concentrations.
[10" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to stimulate G6PDH activity.
[11" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts for immunomodulation.
[12" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts used as anti-inflammatory agents.
[13" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extract used as an active ingredient against acne and rosacea.
[14" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts used as antioxidants.
[15" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to protect skin and hair against the effects of UVA and UVB irradiation.
[16" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to protect sensitive skin.
[17" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts used as anti-stress agents.
[18" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts to stimulate the synthesis and release of heat shock pretein.
[19" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts used as lipolytic agents.
[20" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts used as active ingredients for the purification of body cells.
[21" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of a germinated plant extract used as an active ingredient to inhibit the synthesis of melanin in skin and hair cells.
[22" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of a germinated plant extract used as an active ingredient with estrogen-like activity.
[23" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of germinated plant extracts used as active ingredients for detoxification of cells for protection against environmentally harmful substances.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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JP2004532269A|2004-10-21|

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WO2002098385A1|2002-12-12|

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EP1262167A1|2002-12-04|

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US20040142007A1|2004-07-22|

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DE50214660D1|2010-10-28|

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EP1392237B1|2010-09-15|

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EP1392237A1|2004-03-03|

引用文献:

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公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

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法律状态:
2001-06-01|Priority to EP01401428.6

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2001-06-01|Priority to EP01401428A

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2002-05-23|Application filed by 코니스 프랑스, 에스.에이.

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2002-05-23|Priority to PCT/EP2002/005660

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2004-03-10|Publication of KR20040021605A

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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EP01401428.6|2001-06-01|

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EP01401428A|EP1262167A1|2001-06-01|2001-06-01|Cosmetic preparations containing an extract from germinating plants|

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PCT/EP2002/005660|WO2002098385A1|2001-06-01|2002-05-23|Cosmetic preparations containing an extract of germinating plants|